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The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has announced that its next fashion exhibition will be dedicated to the British supermodel Naomi Campbell, almost 40 years after she was first scouted in Covent Garden at the age of 15. The exhibition, called simply Naomi, will follow the museum’s current retrospective dedicated to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, and will showcase pieces from Campbell’s own extensive personal wardrobe, alongside archive looks from her runway career loaned by designers. “For me as a fashion historian, what is so fascinating is the way that her 40-year career intersects with the best of high fashion,” curator Sonnet Stanfill explains to Vogue. “We’re telling the story of a career through clothes—clothes that are extraordinary.” There will also be an installation of significant fashion photography, curated by British Vogue’s editor-in-chief Edward Enninful, which will capture the “special alchemy she has with photographers, resulting as magic on the page.”
This is the first time that a model will be the focus of an exhibition at the V&A, and Campbell’s personal involvement also makes it unique. “We are very much working with her to foreground her voice and her perspective,” Stanfill says. “I think what has come through those conversations is that this isn’t really a retrospective, as although it’s looking back across 40 years, she is still so active—she’s in ad campaigns, a coveted presence on the front row, and is regularly walking on the runway.”Photo: Marco Bahler Naomi—which will open on June 22, 2024, and run until April 6, 2025—will be a “broad survey of past and present”, with an emphasis on designers who helped shape her early career, such as Azzedine Alaïa (or “Papa”, as Campbell called him), Yves Saint Laurent and Gianni Versace, but also an exploration of her more recent runway looks. The exhibition will span 100 items in total, with pieces from Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Virgil Abloh and more set to be included. The only gown Stanfill confirmed will appear is the pink feathered and lace gown Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli designed for the supermodel to wear to the Met Gala in 2019.
The museum is working closely with Naomi herself to curate the exhibition. “She definitely has a point of view and we’re really fortunate that she wants to express that,” says Stanfill. “I think it would be presumptuous for any person to tell another person’s story, let alone one of the most prolific figures in contemporary culture, so we very much want to foreground her perspective and her voice.” The theme for Naomi won’t be simply the most beautiful clothes, but rather the pieces that tell a “layered story about a career and life that started in London.” The challenge isn’t necessarily the volume of looks to comb through (although there are certainly thousands to choose from), but the inevitable deadline to finalize the exhibit—Stanfill and the V&A team could be adding right “up until the day before the exhibition,” given that the still highly sought-after model will likely walk in the fall 2024 and couture shows before then.
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